Umbria Blog | New restaurant Osteria dell’Accademia

Somewhat hidden behind the theatre of Tuoro sul Trasimeno a new restaurant opened up. It has been a restaurant for many years but lately it was abandoned. Marco is now giving it a second chance and changed it into a cosy osteria. You can’t miss the small theatre of Tuoro, it is along the main road and has a parking in front. Walk around the theatre and behind it you will find this small restaurant.

Marco aims to present only local produce and does this very literally: there is no refrigerator in the kitchen. It is all fresh food that is served. He selects the ingredients himself, chooses the recipies and as much as possible combines fresh seasonal vegetables and local fish from the lake. At the entrance of the restaurant is a small herb garden he created himself. You won’t have large portions here, but it is all very particular. One thinks to get tomato and mozzarella, for instance, but it looks very different:

We spent €120 in four, an antipasto and primo each, inclusive the wine from the house. The meals go from €10-12 for an antipasto, €12-14 for a primo up to around €20 for a main course.

I can warmly recommend this small osteria, if you wish to eat locally, organic, and somewhat different from the mainstream.

Osteria dell’Accademia
Via Roma 41
06069 Tuoro sul Trasimeno (PG)
cell. +39 392 4831828
osteria.accademia@gmail.com

Umbria Blog | Prehistory and the Abbey of Farneta

On a beautiful sunny day in April I participated in a guided walk in the area of the Abbey of Farneta. Farneta is a small hamlet in the valley next to the Trasimeno lake in Umbria, the Val di Chiana. Coming from the A1 or from Siena, driving towards Lake Trasimeno and Perugia many times I just drove by and never bothered to take the exit for “Abbazia di Farneta”. But now I did …

In a landscape of gentle hills, typical of the Val di Chiana, stands an old Romanesk Church. Once it was a Benedictine Abbey of which one can still see some remaining walls. For 65 years, from 1937 to 2002, the church belonging to the abbey has had the same pastor. Don Sante Felici was a very unique man who not only led his parish with much verve. He was also very interested in ancient times and made sure that the Abbey of Farneta was preserved from downfall.

The Etruscans left many remnants in this area and the pastor made sure that the cellars underneath the church were dug out. And he was right: nowadays one can visit the crypt underneath the altar dating back to pre-roman times. Legend goes that when digging they found enormous amounts of human skeletons and living snakes; an image of Dante’s inferno.

Our walk continued from the Abbey to the former school building of Farneta where to my surprise a small paleontology museum is made with … yes … prehistoric fossils, all found near Farneta! Who would have thought: a million years ago the Val di Chiana valley was a savannah where elephants, hyenas and rhinoceros lived. Even longer ago, the whole environment was a sea. In the museum you can see many fossil shells, but also bones of prehistoric elephants, fossilized feces of hyenas and more.

But why in Farneta? That certainly involves the pastor – through the stories of our guide I imagine a kind of Don Camillo. In the 1950s and 1960s the construction of the A1 took place for which a lot of sand was needed. In later years the same happened again with the construction of the highway Siena-Perugia. In the area one excavated a lot of ground for the construction of these new roads.

Don Sante made arrangements with the workmen: they had to warn him if they found bones or other valuable relics. In this way, even two whole skeletons of prehistoric elephants were found, which are now in the paleontological museum of Florence. To this day farmers in the area or workmen during new construction projects find prehistoric bones or Etruscan remains.

It is thanks to the erudite priest Don Sante that many relics found around Farneta can be seen today. His heritage is now managed by a voluntary organization.

Our guide was Laura Gremoli. If you would like more information about the Etruscans and the history around the Val di Chiana, then let yourself be guided by Laura. She has an incredible knowledge and is a passionate story teller. I already experienced this at a guided tour about Etruscans at the Maec museum of Cortona. She is an inexhaustible source of information. You can call her on + 39 3494949604, or email info@cortonatouristguide.com. She speaks English.

Umbria Blog | Archery tournament in Todi

During the weekend of March 25-26 there was an Archery Tournament in Todi: Todi la Città degli Arcieri. Now you wonder what’s so special about that? It is very special: all archers are in medieval outfit!

It is a serious tournament with archers from all over Italy and all come rigorously dressed in a medieval outfit, to the smallest detail. Throughout the small town there are several stands where the archers have to shoot at different goals, also moving goals.

Todi, like many towns in Umbria, has been very prosperous during the 13th and 14th century and this is still easily recognizable looking at the buildings and infrastructure. Hence, why it was very special to see these archers all dressed up, they fitted perfectly well in the surrounding decor.

During the tournament there are several activities being organized: historical flag wavers, medieval dances, special guided tours and a market with typical local products. The weather was great and the atmosphere very relaxed.

Read more about Todi on our blog “Visiting Todi“.