Umbria Blog | Restaurant Bistro Porta Senese in Castiglione del Lago

Castiglione del Lago

Castiglione del Lago is on the eastern shores of lake Trasimeno. It used to be an island, the fourth island of Lake Trasimeno. Now it is a peninsula with its castle overlooking the lake. The town is surrounded by its fortified and castellated walls with three gateways, a main street and a piazza.

In high season many tourists spend a lot of time in Castiglione del Lago. Along the lake you’ll find free beaches, bars and restaurants. This place is also an ideal location for those who love walking and swimming. You can take a walk with your dog on the shores if you want, but only on leads. If you prefer leaving your dog without leash, than the former airport of Castiglione del Lago is an ideal and spacious area to walk your dog.

The historical centre of Castiglione del Lago has cosy restaurants, bars and souvenir-shops. If you’re a wine or beer lover, you can eat your heart out here! There are also some gelateria’s offering a good selection of flavors.

The impressive fortress “Rocca Leone” is worth a visit, with or without children. The views over the Trasimeno Lake from the towers are just stunning!

Perhaps the most busiest day in Castiglione del Lago is Wednesday because of the weekly market in the historical centre. During the summer many festivals are held in the villages along the Trasimeno Lake. In July – August for example is the famous Trasimeno Blues music festival.

A well known Jazz & Blues event where famous artists from all over the world perform. At least 3-times is Trasimeno Blues in Castiglione del Lago. The concerts are free, but it may happen that you need to buy an entrance ticket.

Restaurant

Recently I’ve had dinner in a modern, refined and stylish restaurant in Castiglione del Lago: Bistro Restaurant Porta Senese. This restaurant is just around the corner behind the city gate of Castiglione del Lago. Porta Senese prepares and serves food in a modern style and setting.

Near my dinner table were people from Belgium. For them it was definitely not the first time to eat in this cosy restaurant. The waiter and co-owner is very attentive and kind. It is a wonderful location to spend an evening.

Pasta alla carbonara with guanciale (pork cheek), almonds and tomatoes.

Carpaccio Porta Senese with tomatoes, capers, olives, pepper, salt and good olive oil.

The food is excellent and the wine pairings are great. Local wines from Umbria and Tuscany are served. The Sangiovese wine from the winery Madrevite was perfect to combine with my pasta and meat dish. 

Porta Senese is not a big restaurant, but a small bistrot with some tables. The menu they offer is divers but most are meat dishes. Consumers can choose between cooked beef, raw carpaccio or “meat” sushi. But there are also vegetarian plates like the parmigiana and pasta with pecorino. Even the dolci are from the house! 

Crostata with ricotta, fruit and chocolate.

Personally, I think that Restaurant Bistrot Porta Senese is one of the best restaurants in Castiglione del Lago. It is 5 years that I live in this town and I have never been … until now! An eye opener. It is worth eating here. Even if this restaurant is not really a cheap restaurant, but you’ll be surprised about the quality of the food they serve and the wines they serve are excellent.

The meat supplier of this restaurant is butcher Burico Ottorino. They are just outside the historical centre and sell their own selected meat coming from this area.

Address restaurant:
Via Vittorio Emanuele 2
06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)
Tel. + 39 075 953331

Reservation is recommended, by phone or by mail. This restaurant has only a few tables available. Parking space is easy to find just outside the city walls of Castiglione del Lago. There is free parking along the fortified walls of the village. 

Enjoy!

Umbria Blog | The world’s smallest theatre “Teatro della Concordia”

Near Todi is Monte Castello di Vibio. This small hamlet is on a hill top of 422 meters. It is also called the balcony of Umbria because of its position and unique views of the hills of Umbria and the Tiber valley. Monte Castello di Vibio counts 1600 citizens. 

The village still looks like a medieval walled hamlet. Of course it has a main square with its church but there are also small alleys with some local shops, a bakery, a butcher, a post office and one bar. 

The smallest theatre of the world, il Teatro della Concordia is the soul of Monte Castello di Vibio. Its inhabitants are proud of their theatre. After the latest restorations in 1993, the municipality called the theatre officially “the smallest museum of the world”. 

This theatre has a capacity of 32 spectators on the main floor and 67 in the stalls. Il Teatro dell Concordia has been designed in 1789, during the French post revolutionary period and it was finished in 1808. The theatre is made entirely from wood: the foyer, the ceiling, the walls and the back drop of the theatre. 

The interior of the theatre has been decorated by Cesare Agretti, originally  from La Spezia. Years later in 1892, Luigi Agretti, the son of Cesare, frescoed the masterpiece on the ceiling and the foyer in the theatre. The frescoes on the ceiling are the eye catcher of the museum. It took him 3 months to finish the paintings.

Nine rich families of the town owned the theatre. They wanted to give their people more cultural activities. In the central area the decorations with names on the boxes aren’t the names of the families but the names of famous theatre players and actors. The families didn’t want to have their names on it, because they changed boxes at every concert or show.

On stage many famous actors and stars performed, even during the Second World war. Since 1951 the theatre has been closed for a considerable time. It had deteriorated and for safety reasons the theatre wasn’t able to reopen.

In 1981 small companies, (local) families and municipalities decided to invest in the reconstruction of this small wooden theatre. Since 1993 the theatre has been reopened to the public.

It is still an intimate and unique place. Shows, conferences, concerts and weddings are  held here. One can also visit the theatre with a local guide. During the low season the theatre is only open on Saturday and Sunday. In the high season the theatre is open every day. The price is 5 Euros per person, and children under 18 years old are free. If you come with a group of more than 15 people, the price will be 4 Euros per person. 

Outside the city walls is free parking from where it is a 200 meter walk to the centre of Monte Castello di Vibio. The signs show you the way to the smalles theatre of the world: Teatro della Concordia.

The theatre is worth a visit, you’ll be surprised about its masterpieces and the intimacy of this place. 

Teatro della Concordia
Piazza del Teatro della Concordia 4
06057 Monte Castello di Vibio (PG)
Tel: +39 (0) 75 8780737

Umbria Blog | visit museum Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria in Perugia

Perugia is a lovely city with many cosy squares and tiny alleyways. It is the chocolate-capital of Umbria. In the historical centre you can’t miss the antique churches, parks and medieval buildings with nice boutiques, good coffee bars and many shops.

Perugia houses the most important art history museum of Umbria: La Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria. This museum has magnificent works, including important paintings ranging from the 13th to the 19th century. A visit to this museum is a must for Renaissance art lovers.

The museum is in the medieval building “Palazzo dei Priori” on the main street Corso Vannucci 19 in Perugia. The entrance is on Corso Vannucci through a thirteenth-century portal, decorated with the symbols of the town of Perugia, the statues of the griffin and the lion.

The Palazzo dei Priori is built between 1293-1443 in Gothic style. This building houses the City Hall, the Sala dei Notari and the museum itself is on the upper floors. To get there one can take the stairs, but there also is an elevator.

The entrance is 8,00 Euro, but every first Sunday of the month, the museum is open with free admission for al visitors. One can get the entrance tickets on the ground floor. All national museums in Italy have free entrance on the first Sunday of the month, it can be quite busy that day.

The museum in Perugia includes various masterpieces from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Much space is given to Umbrian painters: Il Perugino, Pintoricchio and Caporali. The works range from painting on wood, canvas and murals, to sculptures in wood and stone to goldsmith’s art and fabrics. The itinerary starts with the collections of the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

A wonderful masterpiece created by Bartolomeo Caporali “Madonno col Bambino e Angeli entro una ghirlanda” which means “the Virgin with child and Angels in a Garland”. This painting is completed between 1470-1479.

Painting (1467 – 1469) “Polittico di Sant’Angelo” from the early Renaissance artist Piero della Francesca. Piero della Francesca is born in the decade between 1410 – 1420 in Borgo San Sepolcro. He has spent a lot of his time in Arezzo and in San Sepolcro Tuscany.

If you want to see some other masterpieces of Piero della Francesca, in the museum Uffizi in Florence one can admire the famous portrait panels of Battista Sforza and Federico da Montefeltro.

The itinerary in the museum continues with paintings and sculptures from the 17th, 18th and 19th century in Umbria. It is a wonderful museum “La Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria” and worth a visit when you’re in Perugia. During the year there also are special exhibitions, keep an eye on the museum’s website to know more about these.

After a visit to the museum we have a nice tip for an authentic espresso: the “Sandri” bar. Sandri is in the city centre and has a long history dating back to 1860. It originally was a Swiss family. Their chocolate and coffee are of high quality. Sandri is just on the opposite side of the museum in the Corso Vannucci 32. Don’t forget to look above your head in the bar. The paintings on the ceiling are amazing!