I should have added ‘romantic’ to this! I have not often eaten in an Italian restaurant that was almost entirely lit by candles. The effect was absolutely lovely.
I am talking about Vineria del Vasaio in Citta di Castello. The food was good and the menu had different things from what you usually find in Umbrian restaurants which makes for a welcome change. The wine list was OK with even a few ”natural wines’ present. The owner was very kind in a flirting kind of way, but he was ‘flirting’ with all his clients (men and women, old and young, good looking and not). I usually don’t like this kind of behaviour, but seeing he treated everybody the same I easily accepted.
One enters this restaurant in the kitchen which is totally open for anybody who would like to have a look. You also pay your bill again in the kitchen (unless you ask for the bill at the table, but in Italy you can often choose and we paid at the entrance (which at the end of the evening is the exit of course). A rather small kitchen, well organised.
A place I can recommend, even when not looking for romance!
Vineria del Vasaio – Via della Cacioppa 4 – 06012 Citta di Castello. Tel (+39)0758523281